Yashima is one of those places that quietly explains why the Shikoku pilgrimage is more than a list of temples. At the top of this flat-topped mountain near Takamatsu, Temple 84 sits beside old battle stories, forest paths and a west-facing lookout over the Seto Inland Sea. You can come as a pilgrim, a history lover or simply for sunset—and the mountain makes room for all three.
Yashimaji: Temple 84 of the Shikoku 88
Yashimaji is the 84th temple on the Shikoku Henro, the 88-temple pilgrimage associated with Kūkai, also known as Kōbō Daishi. The route circles the island for roughly 1,200 kilometers, but you do not need to walk the entire pilgrimage to visit respectfully. Many travelers visit a single temple, offer a quiet prayer and continue at their own pace.
The temple stands on Yashima, a 293-meter volcanic plateau east of central Takamatsu. Its history is linked to the monk Ganjin, while Kōbō Daishi is traditionally credited with restoring the temple. The main hall and temple bell are designated Important Cultural Properties, and the small treasure museum holds works connected with the Genpei War and the Battle of Yashima.
The short walk to Shishi no Reigan
From Yashimaji, follow the summit path toward Shishi no Reigan—“Lion’s Spirit Ridge.” The walk is easy and short, but leave time to look back at the temple gates and out through gaps in the trees. The viewpoint faces Takamatsu, Megijima and Ogijima, with Naoshima visible farther across the water on a clear day.
The best light comes late in the afternoon. From roughly May to mid-September, the sun drops over the Seto Inland Sea, silhouetting the islands and ferries. After dark, the boats appear as slow-moving lights below. If you plan to stay for sunset, check the last bus first or arrive by car—the old cable car closed permanently in 2005.
Try kawarake-nage, not “karaoke-nage”
Near the lookout, stalls sell small biodegradable clay discs for kawarake-nage. The goal is to throw one through a metal ring suspended below the ridge—or at least send it flying far. The custom is said to bring good luck and ward off misfortune. It recalls the Minamoto warriors celebrating their victory at the Battle of Yashima in 1185 by tossing their round helmets into the air.
It is a simple activity, but it gives the viewpoint a sense of place. Aim gently: the wind usually has its own opinion.
How to reach Yashimaji
- By public transport: local buses run from JR Yashima Station via Kotoden-Yashima Station to the summit area. Check the current timetable before leaving Takamatsu.
- By car: the 3.8-kilometer Yashima Skyway leads to the paid summit parking area beside the temple. The drive itself has good views.
- On foot: several trails climb Yashima. Choose this only with suitable shoes, water and enough daylight.
- Time needed: allow at least 90 minutes for the temple, lookout and an unhurried summit walk; longer if you visit the museum or wait for sunset.
Pilgrimage etiquette for a casual visitor
You do not need white pilgrim clothing to enter. Keep your voice low around worshippers, avoid blocking the main hall for photos and do not photograph where signs prohibit it. If you want to follow the basic ritual, wash your hands at the basin, offer a coin and bow quietly. A pilgrim’s stamp book is meaningful when collected as part of the journey, not merely as a souvenir hunt.
My honest take
Yashimaji alone is beautiful but brief. What makes the visit memorable is the combination: a living pilgrimage temple, the remains of a medieval battlefield and an island-filled horizon. I would go in the late afternoon, walk slowly from the temple to Shishi no Reigan and stay until the ferries begin to glow below.
For official temple details, see the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage Association. Takamatsu City also publishes current English visitor information for Yashima and its walking routes. Details reviewed in August 2026.